OK, this is the big daddy of the biryanis, the ultimate gourmet experience, a recipe for biryani probably very close to the original used by royal kitchens of the Moghuls. Needless to say, it doesn’t do ‘short cuts’ or ‘cheap’ ingredients. Everything about it shouts luxury, abundance, over-the-top-glamour, elite and sophistication at its highest. Don’t be put off though! Achieving the feat is reward itself but more importantly, by creating this biryani, you will be giving yourself a rare experience of what it was like to dine in the royal tent of a nizam or a nawab!
The Mughals had kitchen run by a ministry with each ‘department’ or ‘section’ responsible for producing its own particular ingredient; of-course, there were herb gardens, animals reared on local farms but a vast army of kitchen aides ensured there was home made rose water, saffron, diary produce, best nuts from Afghanistan and it is said the animals were fed rose petals, saffron, mangoes to enhance their flavour! Back in North London, keeping things in perspective, it is possible to reproduce a similar biryani but planning is essential. It simple will not be possible to attempt to do everything on the day of consumption; it is pretty much impossible. To keep sanity, you will need to start a few days ahead to get the preparation in place. Be warned, this recipe will test your will to live! Once done and laid on the table though, every man and woman will crumble under its intoxicating magic of perfumed smells, its alluring beauty, its sheer arrogance to stand pompously like its flaunting master in a Mughal court at whose demands such a dish would have been created.
This is exactly the point of Posh Pakistani Pot; take it easy, break it up in steps, involve others, enjoy the whole experience with family, friends and turn it into an event. Meet up and make a day out of gathering the ingredients from different shops – in London, we do this by visiting The Spice Shop in Notting Hill, then tube to Wembley for fresh cuts of meat, back to a shop behind Euston for saffron and in between a great time has had by all! Again, hand out jobs to all those who will partake in the final consumption; this should be a communal activity, with joys shared by all.
For ease of making this biryani, I have separated each part of the biryani into different sections, thus allowing each component to be prepared individually beforehand. There are 4 parts – each part takes 3-4 hours in preparation and cooking! You will need to spread it over 2-3 days! Be brave – its a trophy dish and you have to earn it.
PART ONE – MAKING SHAHI KORMA
INGREDIENTS
125ml pure ghee
5 large onions
10 cloves garlic
3 inch ginger
2kg of best lean, boneless lamb taken from leg part of the animal and cut into cubes
1 tsp. paprika
2 fresh green chillies cut up
250g yoghurt
250g double cream
1 tbsp. salt
MOGHUL GARAM MASALA
3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 1/2 tsp. ground mace
4 dessert spoonful of ground, freshly made garam masala (recipe elsewhere in the blog)
METHOD
1. Cut onions into thin slices and fry till dark brown but not burnt.
2. Make a paste of garlic and ginger and add; cook for 2-3 minutes.
3. Wash and dry the meat and put in the pan. Fry rigorously for a few minutes until the meat takes on a dark brown colour. Add salt.
4. Add all the spices: ground cinnamon, ground cumin, ground mace and garam masala. Fry for another few minutes, till all the spices gels into the meat and each cube is coated.
5. Add 1/2 of the yoghurt and 1/2 of double cream; fry for further 5 minutes. If meat becomes too dry, add a little warm water.
6. Reduce heat to its lowest setting and cook for 1 1/2 – 2 hours (until tender).
7. Turn off heat and add the remaining yoghurt and double cream together with the fresh chillies.
PART TWO – MAKE YAKHNI (meat, aromatic stock)
3 litres water
1kg of boned lamb e.g. shoulder, neck, ribs
2 large onions – peeled and roughly cut
1 head of garlic – peeled, no need to cut
3 inch ginger – skinned and cut into slices
whole garam masala: 2 long cinnamon sticks, 8-10 large cardamoms, 2 tsp. cloves, 4 tsp. black pepper corns, 5 tsp. freshly roasted cumin seeds, 5 tsp. freshly roasted coriander seeds.
METHOD
1. Put everything in a large stock pot and bring everything to a boil.
2. Cook slowly over low heat for 1 1/2 hours till the liquid has reduced by half.
3. Strain the liquid and decant into another saucepan.
4. With the remain cooked onions, garlic, meat – mash everything to extract as much juices as possible and add this to the stock. Discard the left overs (except the meat, which could be frozen, to be used later for a ready meal). The stock (called yakhni) made should be around 1 1/2 litres.
PART THREE – MAKE YAKHNI CHAWAL (This is rice cooked in meat, aromatic stock).
INGREDIENTS:
1kg best basmati rice – washed several times under running water and soaked for 1/2 hour.
4 tbsp. pure ghee
1 tsp. salt
1 1/2 litres home made yakhni
1 small onion
METHOD
1. Cut onions into thin slices and fry until dark brown.
2. Add yakhi/stock.
3. Add salt.
4. Bring to boil.
5. Add rice and reduce heat.
6. Cook until all yakni has been absorbed – this will take around 15 minutes.
PART FOUR – PREPARE GARNISHES and FINAL ASSEMBLING
INGREDIENTS
100g blanced almonds
100g cashew nuts
50g plum, good quality organic raisins
50g fresh mint leaves
2/3 minced fresh green chillies
2 tsp. saffron thread, soaked in 1/4 cup of walk milk for 15 minutes. Crush all the strands.
4 tbsp. pure ghee
1/2 bottle rose water
5 large onions
pieces of silver or waraq
METHOD
1. Fry lightly almonds, cashew nuts and raisins in 2 tbsp. ghee. Remove these and set aside.
2. Slice onions and fry till dark brown, but not burnt; remove and cool on kitchen paper.
3. In very, very large pan, put 2 tbsp. of ghee and over gentle heat, let it melt.
4. Ensure that both the yakni chawal and shahi korma are hot (and reheated if prepared ahead).
5. Add 1/2 of the korma; sprinkle some chopped mint and chillies
6. Put a layer of yakhni chawal, about 1/2 of the total amount; sprinkle some more mint and chillies.
7. Add rest of the korma, followed by the remaining 1/2 of yakhni chawal.
8. Dribble saffron in long streaks; add rest of the ghee and sprinkle rose water all over.
9. Cover tightly with a lid wrapped in a thick tea towel; put a heavy object on top of the lid to ensure there is no escape for the steam. Cook over low heat for 40 minutes.
10. Spread the biryani across a wide, large rimmed platter. Decorate with almonds, cashews, raisins and brown onions. For the final touch, put carefully waraq, silver, dotted all over. PHEW!
If you’ve managed to read the whole recipe, you’re thinking “Why would I want to put myself through all that?” Why do we swot for hours and days for our exams, why do we need to learn to drive a car, why do we work night and day to save for a holiday – why do we do these things: because they all enhance our lives.
To enrich our lives, be it music, art or food, is to live well, appreciate the abundance of bounty that is to be found all around us and to even salute our extravagant, flamboyant, excessive ways of our forebears. Good food is not just for the rich and famous; by right, it is ours too. You wouldn’t cook this biryani every week, not even every month, but once in a while you can make a tryst with friends or family when you gather to meet a difficult but absolutely gorgeous foe – The Shah Jahani Biryani!
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